![]() ![]() (You have to be very careful, go slow, hold it firm but don't force it, and all the other usual precautions). ![]() The challenge in situations where you ultimately want or need to save the frame threads is you have no forgiveness for the tool wandering, and this is the safest way I've found of addressing that. This kind of Dremel bit, a round carbide burr (probably some other names too) is the most effective thing I've found that can cut into the broken stub without wandering around. This is what I would do if I had to tackle it: There's a hierarchy of tool hardnesses in industry and extractors are around the top of it because they're intended to be able to bite into fasteners that themselves are made of hard stuff, like stainless or grade 8 bolts. Proceeding in a way where the threads remain intact at all costs is more perilous and time-consuming.īroken extractors can be a big problem because they're made of such hard steel. You can try and brain surgery your way through and keep helicoiling as a backup plan, or you can skip that part and obliterate everything and just helicoil it, that's up to you. 5mm would probably fine, and less than that I don't love. Is the bead placed in a way where it's going to shore things up at all, or is it only connecting to the top flange? Ideal would be if the helicoil threads get at least 6mm worth of chunky material to reside in between what the flange and joint give, so the 3.55/2 part isn't being asked to do anything structurally. (6.5-6.145)/2 is not much but it's not nothing. Is the eyelet basically this thing, 10mm flanged top and 6.5mm shank dia?: ![]() Then look around a little at the ti framebuilding suppliers to get an idea how big the hole in the frame is. Does it have enough meat to handle a 6.145mm hole in it? Is the eyelet and its welded connection chunky enough to fix it by helicoiling? Look at a helicoil tap chart. The first thing I would do is assess the question of what happens if your efforts result in the eyelet threads getting wrecked. ![]()
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